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Kisah di balik edisi Italia baru majalah kami yang luar biasa

Kisah di balik edisi Italia baru majalah kami yang luar biasa


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Itu kembali pada tahun 2009 bahwa legenda makanan Italia Antonio Carluccio dan Gennaro Contaldo pertama kali bergabung dengan Mr Oliver untuk pemotretan majalah Jamie. Enam tahun kemudian, ketiganya bersatu kembali untuk sampul edisi Italia tahun ini, dan chemistry antara "bapak baptis bawang putih", "master pasta" dan "don makanan penutup" sama elektriknya seperti biasanya.

Gennaro dan Antonio pertama kali bertemu pada tahun 1981 di Neal Street Restaurant di Covent Garden, ketika Antonio muncul di pintu menawarkan segenggam jamur liar. Pasangan itu, yang keduanya berasal dari pantai Amalfi di Italia, terikat karena kecintaan mereka pada bahan-bahan Italia yang sangat baik, dan segera Gennaro disambut ke dalam kelompok. Jamie yang berwajah segar bergabung dengan tim berusia 18 tahun sebagai koki kue, dan sisanya, seperti yang mereka katakan, adalah sejarah.

Sejak itu, ketiganya telah menikmati karir selama satu dekade di bidang makanan, tetapi apresiasi mereka terhadap bahan-bahan yang indah dan masakan Italia yang sederhana adalah karakteristik yang menentukan yang tidak pernah terlupakan.

Untuk pemotretan sampul yang sangat istimewa ini, direktur seni majalah Jamie Andrew Jackson mengambil inspirasi dari kecintaannya pada Federico Fellini, sutradara dan penulis naskah Italia di balik 'La Dolce Vita' – film klasik tahun 60-an. Judulnya diterjemahkan menjadi "kehidupan yang baik", dan merupakan kalimat yang sempurna untuk edisi ini karena merangkum semua hal yang hebat tentang masakan Italia. “Saya ingin menunjukkan tiga generasi di sampulnya” kata Andrew, “dan untuk menunjukkan keterampilan yang telah diturunkan – Antonio membimbing Gennaro, dan Gennaro meneruskan pengetahuannya kepada Jamie. Federico Fellini memiliki kutipan terkenal bahwa 'hidup adalah kombinasi sihir dan pasta', jadi menangkap trio yang sedang memasak spageti adalah pilihan yang jelas". Fotografer makanan terkenal David Loftus melakukan pekerjaan yang luar biasa menangkap percikan alami antara tiga koki, dan dia mengakui hasilnya adalah salah satu sampul favoritnya sejauh ini.

Di dalam majalah, Jamie, Antonio, dan Gennaro berbagi beberapa resep brilian yang memperkuat gelar mereka sebagai bapak baptis masakan Italia.

Sesuai dengan akarnya sebagai koki kue, Mr O membagikan resepnya untuk beberapa makanan penutup Italia yang sangat indah, mulai dari cannoli yang lebih kental hingga pir dan kue tar cokelat Vin Santo yang cantik yang akan disukai semua orang. Ini adalah makanan klasik Italia, tetapi dengan sentuhan khas Jamie – pikirkan pannacotta yang cantik dan lembut yang disiram sirup kopi untuk mendapatkan affogato baru – dan mudah untuk melihat mengapa Antonio dan Gennaro melihat begitu banyak harapan pada Jamie muda bertahun-tahun yang lalu!

Gennaro kembali ke rumahnya di pantai Amalfi untuk berbagi beberapa hidangan yang paling mewakili lanskap kuliner yang menginspirasi ini, dari spageti pedesaan yang dibuat dengan cime di rapa (hijau gelap seperti brokoli) dan sosis hingga lemon isi – bintang area ini bahan.

Bagi Antonio, ini semua tentang bahan Italia yang sangat penting: bawang putih. Resepnya, seperti ayam panggang dengan rosemary dan bawang putih dan pesto Genovese klasik, mengikuti moto memasaknya, “MoF, MoF – Minimum Repot, Maksimum Flavour”. Filosofi ini jelas telah diteruskan ke Gennaro dan Jamie juga – ia menangkap semua hal hebat tentang masakan Italia. Deliciozo!

Untuk informasi lebih lanjut dari Jamie, Antonio, dan Gennaro serta banyak inspirasi untuk membantu Anda makan seperti orang Italia, ambil salinan majalah Jamie bulan ini, atau klik di bawah untuk berlangganan – dan sementara itu, lihat beberapa majalah cantik Kiat, ide, dan resep Italia dari situs kami.


Kisah Dibalik Enroot: Teh Bersoda yang Didirikan di Filipina Didukung Oleh Brad Pitt

Enroot adalah koleksi yang baru-baru ini diluncurkan dari teh bersoda organik yang diseduh dengan dingin perlahan yang membayar. [+] penghormatan kepada nenek pendiri dan CEO Cristina Patwa dan warisannya sebagai petani dan pengusaha makanan di Filipina

Di dunia minuman bersoda dan minuman dingin, pemain baru menonjol karena sejumlah alasan. Enroot Sparkling Cold Brew Tea kaya akan warisan Filipina, dibuat dalam kemitraan dengan koki dari James Beard Foundation, dan didukung oleh aktor Brad Pitt.

Koleksi teh dibuat dengan cermat untuk konsumen masa kini—rendah kalori dan karbohidrat (25 kalori, dan 5 gram karbohidrat dalam setiap botol 355 ml) tanpa tambahan gula (sedikit rasa manis berasal dari sentuhan buah jus) dan mereka vegan, halal, dan bebas gluten.

Enroot adalah penghormatan kepada salah satu pendiri dan nenek CEO Cris Patwa dan warisannya sebagai petani dan pengusaha makanan di Filipina. Patwa lahir di Davao, di mana neneknya Pamela (yang ia panggil Mame Pame), memiliki sebuah peternakan. “Ada angsa, ayam, carabao, dan ketika kami lapar atau haus, kami diberi mangga segar dan kelapa yang diambil langsung dari pohonnya,” kenang Patwa. “Waktu saya di Filipina adalah masa kecil saya yang paling menyenangkan. Saya harus melihat dampak Lola saya dalam memberikan pekerjaan bagi perempuan dan laki-laki, memberi makan sekolah, dan menjaga kesehatan tanah kami. Enroot telah memungkinkan saya untuk membawa hal positif itu kembali ke masa dewasa saya.”

Bersama dengan mitra bisnis John Fogelman (sebelumnya William Morris Endeavour), yang ditemui Patwa saat bekerja di film dan televisi di Los Angeles 14 tahun lalu, mereka mendirikan Factory Made, sebuah inkubator yang berfokus pada penciptaan usaha hiburan dan gaya hidup yang dipimpin oleh minoritas. Salah satu merek yang bekerja sama dengan mereka adalah Pitt's Château Miraval, membantu memperluas portofolio rosé pemenang penghargaan menjadi minyak zaitun. “John telah berteman dengan Brad selama lebih dari 25 tahun,” kata Patwa. “Itu adalah jalan alami bagi kami untuk berbagi makanan bersama dan berpikir untuk berbuat lebih banyak dalam makanan dan minuman.”

Enroot Sparkling Tea didirikan oleh Cristina Patwa, John Fogelman dan Brad Pitt

ENROOT/ AXELLE/BAUER-GRIFFIN/FILMMAGIC (BRAD PITT)

Enam Teori Saat U.S./U.K. Larangan Perjalanan Akan Dicabut

Pembaruan Eropa: 12 Negara Ini Sekarang Menggunakan Sertifikat Covid Digital E.U., Dengan 16 Lainnya Di Dek

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Teh adalah minuman pilihan mereka karena "ini adalah minuman kedua yang paling banyak dikonsumsi di seluruh dunia, setelah air," jelasnya. Menurut Asosiasi Teh AS, 80% rumah memiliki sejenis teh di rumah mereka, dengan hampir 160 juta orang Amerika minum teh setidaknya sekali sehari. Ini, di samping ketertarikan para mitra dengan pertumbuhan pesat pasar teh berkarbonasi global (saat ini bernilai sekitar $4 miliar), mendorong mereka untuk menyatukan elemen-elemen ini, tetapi bukannya tanpa membawanya ke tingkat yang lebih tinggi—dan memberi kembali.

Enroot dibangun di atas nilai-nilai Makanan, Keluarga, dan Pertanian. Cris menjelaskan, “Nilai 'Makanan' kami adalah sekitar . [+] mengutamakan rasa dengan menyusun resep kami dalam kemitraan dengan James Beard Foundation dan koki kami yang terhormat. Nilai 'Keluarga' kami adalah tentang memberi kembali kepada saudara perempuan kami di komunitas makanan. Nilai 'Pertanian' kami berpusat pada prinsip-prinsip pertanian organik dan melindungi sumber daya alam kami."

“Manfaat perawatan diri dari teh, herbal, dan tumbuhan menarik bagi kami, tetapi kami juga ingin memimpin dengan rasa dan kesegaran yang luar biasa—dan itulah yang benar-benar dibawa oleh James Beard Foundation dan keluarga koki kami. Kombinasi berkilau teh dengan buah-buahan dan rempah-rempah membantu untuk mencapai pengalaman rasa, sambil menjaga kesehatan halo sekitar perlahan, teh ritual diseduh dingin untuk antioksidan, hidrasi dan pengisian.

Profil rasa yang unik dan berlapis dari penawaran seperti Mango Turmeric Ginger Guayusa dan Strawberry Lavender Rosemary Tulsi dibuat dalam kemitraan dengan 12 koki dari program Dampak James Beard Foundation (JBF), termasuk JJ Johnson dari Field Trip di Harlem dan Asha Gomez dari The Third Space di Atlanta, yang bersama mereka sepanjang pengalaman dari daun ke botol, mencoba ratusan varietas teh, buah-buahan, akar, tumbuhan, dan metode pembuatan bir.

Chef Asha Gomez dari The Third Space di Atlanta mengembangkan Rebusan Sayuran Keralan untuk dipadukan. [+] Enroot Mangga Kunyit Jahe Guayusa

“Kami datang dengan ritual minuman dingin 20 jam yang lambat, karena mengekstrak rasa yang halus dan menyegarkan tanpa kepahitan dan astringency yang sering dikaitkan dengan teh lainnya. Kami mampu menyeimbangkan berbagai lapisan daun teh, rempah-rempah, buah-buahan, dan rempah-rempah tanpa tambahan gula, untuk memberikan pengalaman yang selaras dengan cara para koki menyiapkan hidangan dan menu di restoran mereka.” Di situs web mereka, Enroot menampilkan koktail dan resep pasangan makanan yang dibuat khusus oleh para koki.

Chef Annie Pettry, yang memimpin dapur di Decca di Louisville, Kentucky selama sembilan tahun, menciptakan . [+] Smoky Mango Mezcal, menggunakan Guayusa Jahe Kunyit Mangga Enroot

Enroot juga merupakan Sustaining Partner dari JBF Women's Leadership Program. “Dalam industri di mana lebih dari setengah dari mereka yang masuk sekolah kuliner adalah perempuan, hanya 21% dari mereka adalah koki di dunia kuliner (vs 28% CEO perempuan yang menjalankan bisnis),” kata Patwa. “Di restoran papan atas, wanita hanya memegang 6,3% dari posisi kepala koki—ini lebih buruk daripada 8% CEO wanita yang menjalankan perusahaan Fortune 500 dan sayangnya, tidak mendapat banyak perhatian.” Patwa menekankan, “Kita bisa dan harus berbuat lebih baik untuk saudari kita di meja makan.”

Kami berbicara dengan Patwa untuk mempelajari lebih lanjut tentang warisan Filipinanya, pengaruhnya terhadap perusahaannya, dan keterlibatan Brad Pitt:

Tolong beritahu kami tentang latar belakang Anda. Apa yang Anda lakukan sebelum Enroot?

Saya tinggal di Filipina sampai saya berusia delapan tahun. Pada tahun 80-an, kota kami mengalami konflik besar dan kerusuhan sipil. Pada satu titik, kami ditahan di bawah todongan senjata, yang membuat keluarga dekat kami pergi ke AS. Saya belajar keras di sini, menonton "Three's Company" dan "I Love Lucy" untuk meningkatkan bahasa Inggris saya (dan humor!) Orang tua saya adalah CPA, jadi seperti kebanyakan anak imigran, Anda melakukan apa yang Anda ketahui dalam lingkaran Anda. Saya kuliah di Universitas Boston untuk belajar akuntansi dan MIS, dan menjadi CPA juga. Itu memberi saya dasar teknis yang hebat, dan saya bisa mendapatkan pekerjaan di Wall Street sebagai konsultan Strategi dan Teknologi untuk Deloitte.

Beberapa tahun kemudian, saya pindah ke Los Angeles dan pergi ke sekolah bisnis di UCLA. Saya ingin mulai mengambil sedikit lebih banyak risiko secara kreatif dalam karier saya. Saya mendapatkan pekerjaan di Disney-ABC Television melakukan pengembangan bisnis, di mana saya bekerja di acara luar biasa seperti "Grey's Anatomy" Shonda Rhimes dan J.J. Abrams 'Lost' untuk menciptakan bisnis produk konsumen seperti video game, DVD, dan pakaian di sekitar karakter mereka. Saya bertemu John [Fogelman], karena dia adalah J.J. Agen Abrams, dan anggota dewan dan salah satu pemilik The William Morris Agency (dan kemudian WME).

Saya segera bergabung dengan John di William Morris untuk membantu mengembangkan Hasbro terjun ke film dan televisi. Kami juga bekerja sama dengan HSN untuk membantu mengembangkan platform game digital HSN Arcade. Setelah ini, John dan saya meninggalkan WME untuk memulai Factory Made.

Apakah Anda menghabiskan banyak waktu di Filipina?

Saya kembali setiap tahun, karena saya sangat dekat dengan sepupu, bibi dan nenek saya yang tinggal di sana. Waktu favorit [saya] adalah sekitar Natal dan Tahun Baru ketika itu sangat menyenangkan, spiritual dan sosial. Perasaan itu ketika semua orang kembali dari misa tengah malam, diisi dengan makanan dan minuman, bernyanyi karaoke di atas paru-paru kita, membuat lelucon murahan, memegang kembang api dan menonton kembang api di atas air, dan memiliki air mata rasa terima kasih di mata Anda hanya untuk menjadi dikelilingi oleh keluarga. Orang Filipina bekerja sangat keras sepanjang tahun, dan ketika pembebasan bersyarat mulai keluar, kami dapat mengesampingkan kekhawatiran kami dan benar-benar menikmati berkah kami.

Cristina dan neneknya atau lola, Pamela, yang ia panggil "Mame Pame". Itu milik Pamela. [+] Warisan sebagai petani dan pengusaha makanan di Davao, Filipina yang menginspirasi Cristina untuk mendirikan Enroot. "Dalam banyak hal, dia meletakkan dasar untuk siapa saya hari ini, menyampaikan kebijaksanaan dan pengalaman hidup, dan belajar tentang bisnis, pertanian, komunitas, dan keberlanjutan."

Saya rasa banyak orang ingin tahu—apa keterlibatan Brad Pitt di Enroot?

Ketika berbicara tentang Brad, bagian dari peran saya adalah untuk benar-benar mendengarkan insting dan arahannya, dan bekerja untuk mewujudkan visi itu. Misalnya, dia memimpin materi iklan untuk branding dan pengemasan, bahkan membuat sketsa pohon dan akar untuk logo kami, dan dia mendorong kami untuk mencari alternatif selain menggunakan botol dan tutup plastik. Dia juga mengasah cara menyampaikan nilai-nilai kita melalui Makanan, Keluarga, Pertanian dan bermitra dengan pihak ketiga independen dalam keberlanjutan seperti SCS Global Services. Dia membawa ide membawa koki ahli dan mencicipi setiap iterasi resep kami, sampai kami secara kolektif menemukan sweet spot kami. Dia menganjurkan agar kami memberikan kembali kepada program kepemimpinan wanita James Beard Foundation, dan merupakan bagian integral dalam pertemuan lapangan utama.

Brad Pitt membuat sketsa logo Enroot

Apakah Anda memiliki favorit pribadi dari rasa Anda?

Saya akan mengatakan bahwa karena Lola saya memiliki pohon mangga yang indah di propertinya, dan jahe itu adalah bahan populer dalam masakan Filipina, Guayusa Jahe Kunyit Mangga memiliki tempat khusus di hati saya. Saya pikir resep ini membawa nada jahe dan kunyit yang bersahaja dan pedas untuk menyeimbangkan rasa bulat yang berani dari daun guayusa dan manisnya mangga tropis.

Strawberry Lavender Rosemary Tulsi juga merupakan favorit pribadi lainnya, karena setelah menjadi seorang ibu, tubuh saya sangat sensitif terhadap kopi dan kafein. Minuman bebas kafein ini bermotif bunga dan buah, dan mudah dinikmati bersama putri kecil saya dan teman ibu lainnya. Kadang-kadang, itu juga bagus dengan percikan gin kering!

Peternakan Pamela di Davao, Filipina

Apa rencana ekspansi Anda untuk Enroot?

Rencana kami saat ini adalah menyemai minuman kami di wilayah California Selatan, dan benar-benar belajar dari konsumen dan mitra tentang apa yang berhasil dan apa yang dapat kami tingkatkan. Dari sana, kami ingin menumbuhkan akar ke daerah lain dan mudah-mudahan menumbuhkan jalan kami ke ketersediaan nasional. Sementara itu, kami berharap konsumen dapat menikmati memesannya melalui www.drinkenroot.com dan terus memberi kami umpan balik saat kami mendapatkan lebih banyak momentum.

Saya seorang jurnalis gaya hidup, pengusaha dan konsultan yang berbasis antara Miami dan Asia Tenggara. Saya adalah mantan penerbit dan wakil editor majalah mewah, dan

Saya seorang jurnalis gaya hidup, pengusaha dan konsultan yang berbasis antara Miami dan Asia Tenggara. Saya adalah mantan penerbit dan wakil editor sebuah majalah mewah, dan hari ini, mempertahankan posisi sebagai Tastehunter untuk 50 Restoran dan Bar Terbaik Dunia, kolumnis untuk Philippine Star, dan kontributor untuk berbagai publikasi internasional. Saya mendirikan platform acara Cross Cultures, yang mempromosikan pertukaran budaya melalui makanan. Ikuti petualangan saya di Instagram @chertiu atau di Twitter @cheryltiu.


Anda telah menciptakan sumber daya yang brilian dan itu benar-benar mengubah hidup saya menjadi lebih baik. Saya suka buku masak dan sekarang saya memiliki akses ke sana dan dapat bersenang-senang lebih banyak dengannya.
Rachel, Oktober 2020

WOW! Kamu berhasil! Ini adalah persis apa yang hilang. Situs yang memungkinkan pengindeksan dan pencarian resep yang Anda miliki. Saya telah membuat 5 makanan baru dalam seminggu semua karena saya akhirnya bisa mencari melalui semua resep saya! Dan mengindeks situs web resep populer? Jenius murni!
Dian, Juli 2020

Saya suka EYB! Tidak yakin apa yang harus dilakukan dengan irisan daging ayam malam ini dan sekarang saya membuat 'Skillet Basil-Peach Chicken Breasts'. Tidak akan pernah memikirkannya atau punya waktu untuk membaca buku masak saya.
Debby, Juni 2020

Sekarang saya memiliki akses yang jauh lebih baik ke buku masak saya daripada yang pernah saya pikirkan. Saya dapat mencari ide resep dan mengambil setiap resep di antara 630 buku di rak buku saya dan kemudian memilih. Dan saya bahkan bisa melakukan ini dari pulau grosir.
Gregg, Mei 2020

Situs web Anda telah menjadi alat yang sangat berharga yang memungkinkan saya memanfaatkan semua resep di perpustakaan saya, dan saya akan menjadi pelanggan seumur hidup. Saya menggunakannya hampir setiap hari. Saya terutama menyukai kemampuan untuk mencari resep dari salah satu penulis favorit saya dan langsung tahu buku mana yang menyimpannya. Dulu, saya harus membaca semua buku milik seorang penulis sebelum menemukan resepnya.
Chantal, Mei 2020

Saya suka menggunakan situs web! Saya merasa seperti saya menggunakan semua buku masak saya sekarang untuk pertama kalinya.
Syila, Maret 2020

Eat Your Books telah mengarahkan saya ke buku masak di rak saya yang sudah bertahun-tahun tidak saya gunakan. Sebuah sumber daya yang luar biasa! … dan kesenangan yang luar biasa dan lezat.
Michael, Januari 2020

Saya benar-benar berpikir bahwa program Anda brilian, dan saya benar-benar memberi tahu semua orang yang akan mendengarkan semuanya. Saya mungkin harus ada dalam daftar gaji iklan Anda!
Maria, Februari 2019

Saya adalah anggota baru-baru ini dan sangat bersemangat untuk akhirnya memiliki semua buku masak tercinta yang diatur dalam format yang lebih ramah pengguna! Saya pikir saya akan memasak lebih banyak, dari lebih banyak variasi buku saya, dan mudah-mudahan saya akan membuang lebih sedikit makanan dari kotak CSA saya, karena saya akan dapat mencari berdasarkan bahan yang saya miliki. Keren abis!
Cheryl, Januari 2019

Situs web ini luar biasa! Saya memiliki begitu banyak buku masak yang tidak pernah saya gunakan karena sangat memakan waktu untuk membaca setiap indeks. Ide yang brilian!
Nancy, November 2018

Saya memiliki ratusan buku masak dan majalah memasak. Saya sudah mencoba situs Anda dan itu luar biasa. Dalam seminggu terakhir saya telah menggunakannya 3 kali untuk menemukan sesuatu yang "baru" untuk makan malam dari salah satu buku saya. Ide yang bagus .
Roseanne, November 2018

Saya baru di situs Anda dan saya harus memberi tahu Anda. itu luar biasa! Saya sangat menyukainya! Saya memiliki hampir 40 buku masak. Saya punya sedikit masalah. dan saya tidak pernah dapat menemukan apa yang saya cari dengan mudah. Itu luar biasa.
Jillian, Januari 2018

Ini adalah . . . terbaik mutlak. . . ide saya pikir siapa pun pernah memiliki dalam sejarah dunia. Anda baru saja memecahkan satu masalah utama yang saya miliki dengan semua buku masak dan majalah saya.
Pete - Februari 2017


Masuki Rumah Pertanian L.A. Berkelanjutan Ashton Kutcher dan Mila Kunis

Mila Kunis, mengenakan gaun Dior, anting-anting oleh Louis Vuitton, dan cincin Hoorsenbuhs, dan Ashton Kutcher, dalam jins Levi's dan kaus antik, terlihat santai di beranda. Sofa oleh Cisco Home. Lanskap oleh L.Z. Grup Desain. Penataan Busana oleh Rob & Mariel. Douglas Friedman. Rambut oleh Mara Rosak di A-Frame Agency makeup oleh Mélanie Inglessis di Forward Artists for Armani Beauty.

Pasti ada beberapa Beverly Hillbillies sindiran yang berkaitan dengan rumah yang dibangun oleh aktor Ashton Kutcher dan Mila Kunis di situs puncak bukit yang megah yang bertengger di atas daerah kantong Los Angeles yang bertingkat. Bagaimanapun, transplantasi Hollywood bertenaga tinggi — dia dari Iowa dia lahir di Ukraina — menggali sumur di properti untuk mengairi tanah, menanam (dan memanen) ladang jagung selama penguncian COVID, dan menjuluki tempat itu KuKu Farms . Tetapi sementara Jed, Granny, dan anggota keluarga Clampett lainnya menganut pandangan yang jauh lebih tradisional tentang kemegahan Beverly Hills—rumah besar Neoklasik Prancis yang digambarkan dalam kredit seri ini dirancang oleh arsitek Sumner Spaulding pada awal 1930-an dan direnovasi oleh desainer legendaris Henri Samuel pada 1980-an—Kutcher dan Kunis mendekati proyek gairah mereka dari perspektif yang jelas lebih sederhana.

Lampu kristal milik klien memahkotai gudang hiburan, di mana bilah kaca membentang setinggi 19 kaki. Sofa khusus dilapisi kain luar ruangan Pindler.

Di salah satu ujung ruang tamu/ruang makan yang terbuka, sebuah meja Matthew Cox dengan kursi Stahl + Band terletak di atas karpet antik dari Woven. Meja De La Espada dengan lampu antik dari Obsolete terletak di sudut.

“Kami menginginkan rumah, bukan perkebunan,” Kunis menegaskan, menggambarkan properti enam hektar yang sekarang menampung rumah utama yang terhubung ke wisma/gudang hiburan, serta paviliun barbekyu yang berdiri sendiri, semuanya tersusun di sepanjang poros tengah yang diplot dengan rumit. untuk menangkap pemandangan yang mempesona dari, antara, dan melalui berbagai struktur. “Kami ingin rumah itu terlihat seperti gudang tua, sesuatu yang telah ada di sini selama beberapa dekade, yang kemudian diubah menjadi rumah. Tapi itu juga harus terasa modern dan relevan,” jelas Kutcher.

Duo yang terobsesi dengan desain meluncurkan petualangan lima tahun mereka dengan merakit papan Pinterest independen untuk menyempurnakan visi pribadi mereka untuk proyek tersebut. “Membangun rumah dari nol bukanlah hal kecil. Ini akan membuat kita atau menghancurkan kita, ”kata Kunis tentang usaha yang berpotensi memecah belah. Untungnya, kecenderungan estetika mereka tampaknya cocok dengan rapi. “Ketika kami melihat papan satu sama lain, 90 persen gambar yang kami pilih sama, dan sebagian besar rumah yang kami semat dirancang oleh Howard,” kenang Kutcher, merujuk pada arsitek Howard Backen dari perusahaan AD100 Backen & Gillam Architects.

Garis pandang membentang dari paviliun barbekyu, di seberang kolam renang, dan melalui rumah utama.

Backen, tentu saja, adalah master dari apa yang disebut rumah pertanian modern, yang terkenal karena kemampuannya membujuk rasa puisi dan semangat kontemporer yang cerah dari bentuk-bentuk vernakular suling dan bahan-bahan pedesaan. Kediaman Kutcher/Kunis adalah bukti penanganan alkimianya terhadap kayu reklamasi, beton bentuk papan, dan kaca. “Howard seperti perancang perangkat lunak yang hebat, seseorang yang mendekati desain sebagai aksentuasi fungsi,” kata Kutcher, yang memiliki pengalaman luas di perusahaan rintisan teknologi. “Seorang perancang perangkat lunak ingin membawa orang ke tempat yang mereka inginkan dengan klik paling sedikit. Howard ingin membawa Anda ke tempat yang Anda inginkan dengan pintu dan rintangan paling sedikit. Dia juga tahu bahwa ada tempat-tempat tertentu di mana Anda menginginkan pembatas untuk menandai ambang batas dan menciptakan sedikit gesekan,” tambah Kutcher.

Untuk bagiannya, Backen membalas pujian itu. “Ashton dan Mila adalah dua orang paling cerdas dan paling ingin tahu yang pernah bekerja dengan kami. Kami berbicara tentang segala hal mulai dari ukuran balok hingga detail tulangan silang hingga persimpangan papan kayu dan beton. Ini bukan jenis percakapan yang kami lakukan dengan setiap klien, ”kata arsitek.

Mila Kunis (mengenakan pakaian Salvatore Ferragamo, anting-anting dan kalung dari Louis Vuitton, cincin Hoorsenbuhs, dan sepatu kets Converse) dan Ashton Kutcher (mengenakan kemeja dari Life/After/Denim, T-shirt Dolce & Gabbana, jeans Levi dan Paul Sepatu bot Smith) di rumah di LA

Sofa Montauk, lampu berdiri Vaughan, dan permadani antik dari Woven menghuni ruang tamu, di mana jahitan dinding beton bentuk papan sejajar sempurna dengan papan lantai kayu ek reklamasi.

Stephanie Gerwin, rekan Backen, membenarkan gagasan itu. “Mereka ada di luar sana bersama kami, sebagai anggota asli tim desain, untuk setiap langkah dari proses yang panjang dan rumit ini,”
dia mencatat, menekankan komitmen pasangan itu untuk menciptakan rumah pengasuhan yang berkelanjutan untuk diri mereka sendiri dan dua anak mereka yang masih kecil, Wyatt dan Dimitri. Rumah ini sepenuhnya ditenagai oleh fotovoltaik, tersembunyi dari pandangan di atas teras luas yang membentang di sepanjang satu sisi struktur utama. Faktanya, panel surya rumah menghasilkan daya yang jauh lebih besar daripada yang dibutuhkan properti, meskipun kode kota kuno tidak benar-benar mendorong pembagian energi—
situasi yang diharapkan pemilik rumah akan berubah di masa depan. “Ashton dan Mila prihatin dengan kualitas tanah, kemurnian makanan yang mereka makan dan air yang mereka minum. Cita-cita keberlanjutan dan pertanian regeneratif bukan hanya konsep abstrak bagi mereka,” kata Backen.

Kosakata arsitektur rumah yang halus dan palet bahan yang kokoh memberikan batu loncatan untuk karya desainer interior AD100 Vicky Charles dari Charles & Co., yang bergabung dengan proyek tepat saat dia keluar dari jabatannya sebagai kepala desain global untuk Soho House. “Kami terobsesi dengan Soho Farmhouse dan proyek lain yang dipelopori Vicky. Kami menyukai caranya memadukan kain, pola, tekstur—benar-benar keseluruhan estetikanya,” kata Kunis.

Liontin Hector Finch menerangi Dapur Sebastian Cox oleh deVOL. Ubin lantai oleh Tabarka Studio, perlengkapan oleh Perrin & Rowe, dan lampu di atas meja sarapan oleh Aparatur.

“Mila sedang mengandung anak pertama mereka ketika kami memulai perjalanan ini. Kami menghabiskan waktu berbulan-bulan mencari bahan dan warna untuk menemukan bahasa visual yang tepat. Percakapan kami tidak hanya tentang tanah dan arsitekturnya, tetapi juga tentang masa depan keluarga mereka,” kenang Charles. “Seiring waktu, desainnya beralih dari estetika rumah pertanian tradisional ke sesuatu yang lebih kontemporer. Lampu gantung besi tempa dan chesterfield besar adalah pakaian yang salah untuk tubuh ini, ”tambahnya.

Selain meja baru yang dirancang dengan rapi dan tempat duduk super nyaman yang mewah, Charles menggabungkan elemen dari rumah klien sebelumnya, terutama satu set kursi takhta perak khusus yang dipesan Kutcher dalam perjalanan ke India dan kursi mewah sepanjang 10 kaki. lampu kristal yang tampak sangat bertentangan dengan bentuk arsitektur yang sederhana dan bahan yang sudah usang. “Saya mendapat pekerjaan ini karena saya berjanji saya bisa membuat rumah bagi mereka, katakanlah, potongan-potongan yang tangguh,” canda Charles. Akhirnya dia menempatkan sepasang kursi di kamar mandi utama—singgasana untuk ruang singgasana—dan memasang lampu gantung di paviliun hiburan yang menjulang tinggi. “Kami pikir akan lucu jika benda yang sangat mewah ini tergantung di gudang. Itu seperti membuat properti itu kesal, ”kata Kunis tentang permen kristal yang tidak mungkin.


The Impossible Burger: Di Dalam Ilmu Aneh Daging Palsu Yang 'Berdarah'

Untuk meninjau kembali artikel ini, kunjungi Profil Saya, lalu Lihat cerita yang disimpan.

Untuk meninjau kembali artikel ini, kunjungi Profil Saya, lalu Lihat cerita yang disimpan.

Si juru masak, lengkap dengan jaring rambut, meletakkan patty merah di atas panggangan dan menekannya dengan spatula. Dan di sana, desis dan bau yang tidak salah lagi. Dia membalik patty dan menekannya lagi, membiarkannya duduk, menekannya, dan menariknya dari panggangan dan ke atas roti.

Ini bukan restoran, dan ini bukan juru masak biasa. Dia tidak mengenakan celemek, tetapi jas lab dan kacamata pengaman, berdiri di hibrida dapur-lab di taman kantor Silicon Valley. Di sini, sebuah perusahaan bernama Impossible Foods selama enam tahun terakhir telah melakukan sesuatu yang tidak mustahil, tetapi jelas tidak mungkin: Membuat burger nabati yang berbau, terasa, terlihat, dan bahkan terasa seperti daging giling.

Ada burger vegetarian lain di pasaran, tentu saja, tetapi Impossible Foods ingin menjual analog daging asli kepada konsumen—yang membutuhkan jenis rekayasa yang sangat berbeda dari burger Boca atau kacang hitam Anda. Jadi WIRED ingin membawa Anda menyelami ilmu di balik Impossible Burger.

Menggigit Burger yang Mustahil berarti menggigit masa depan di mana umat manusia entah bagaimana harus memberi makan populasi yang meledak dan tidak semakin membahayakan planet ini dengan lebih banyak ternak. Karena ternak, dan sapi khususnya, melalui makanan dan air dalam jumlah yang tak terduga (hingga 11.000 galon per tahun per sapi) dan menempati lahan yang luas. Dan emisi metana gastrointestinal mereka juga tidak membantu melawan pemanasan global (gas ternak menyumbang 10 persen dari emisi gas rumah kaca di seluruh dunia).

Ini adalah kisah dalam dari rekayasa Burger Impossible, daging palsu dalam misi untuk mengubah dunia dengan satu bagian tanaman kedelai, satu bagian ragi rekayasa genetika—dan satu bagian aktivisme. Namun, seperti yang terjadi, Anda tidak dapat meningkatkan persediaan makanan tanpa terlebih dahulu mengangkat beberapa alis.

Apa yang membuat burger menjadi burger? Baunya, salah satunya, dan rasa serta tekstur, semuanya bekerja bersama untuk menciptakan sesuatu yang hewani. Itu sarat dengan segala macam protein yang berinteraksi satu sama lain dengan cara yang unik, menciptakan semacam teka-teki. Tetapi Impossible Foods berpendapat bahwa esensi daging terletak pada senyawa yang disebut heme, yang memberi daging giling warna dan rasa logam yang samar—berkat zat besi dalam molekul heme. Dalam darah, heme hidup dalam protein yang disebut hemoglobin di otot, itu di mioglobin.

Menariknya, Anda akan menemukan globin (kelas protein) tidak hanya di seluruh dunia hewan, tetapi juga di tumbuhan. Akar kedelai, misalnya, mengandung versi yang disebut leghemoglobin, yang juga mengandung heme. Leghemoglobin dalam kedelai dan mioglobin dalam daging memiliki struktur 3-D serupa yang terdiri dari apa yang dikenal sebagai lipatan globin alfa heliks, yang membungkus heme.

Jadi bagaimana jika Anda bisa mengekstrak heme dari tanaman untuk mendapatkan bahan rahasia dalam daging giling? Nah, masalah utama, Impossible Foods ditemukan, adalah bahwa Anda membutuhkan banyak kedelai: Satu hektar kedelai hanya akan menghasilkan satu kilogram leghemoglobin kedelai.

Pendiri dan CEO Impossible Foods Pat Brown menemukan cara meretas bersama dengan cara yang lebih baik. Teknisi mengambil gen yang mengkode protein leghemoglobin kedelai dan memasukkannya ke dalam spesies ragi yang disebut Pichia pastoris. Mereka kemudian memberi makan ragi yang dimodifikasi gula dan mineral, mendorongnya untuk tumbuh dan mereplikasi dan memproduksi heme dengan sebagian kecil dari jejak kedelai yang ditanam di lapangan. Dengan proses ini, Impossible Foods mengklaim bahwa mereka memproduksi burger palsu yang menggunakan sepersepuluh dari lahan yang dibutuhkan untuk memberi makan dan memelihara ternak dan menggunakan seperempat air, sambil menghasilkan seperdelapan gas rumah kaca (berdasarkan metrik yang disebut siklus hidup). penilaian).

Sekarang, merekayasa burger "daging sapi" dari awal tentu saja lebih dari sekadar heme, yang disebut oleh Impossible Foods sebagai bahan dasarnya. Daging sapi giling memiliki galaksi senyawa berbeda yang berinteraksi satu sama lain, berubah saat daging dimasak. Untuk menyatukan burger nabati yang tidak dapat dibedakan dari yang asli, Anda perlu mengidentifikasi dan menciptakan sebanyak mungkin rasa itu.

Untuk melakukan ini, Impossible Foods menggunakan apa yang dikenal sebagai sistem spektrometri massa kromatografi gas. Ini memanaskan sampel daging sapi, melepaskan aroma yang mengikat sepotong serat. Mesin kemudian mengisolasi dan mengidentifikasi senyawa individu yang bertanggung jawab atas aroma tersebut. “Jadi kita sekarang akan memiliki semacam sidik jari dari setiap aroma yang ada pada daging sapi,” kata Celeste Holz-Schietinger, ilmuwan utama di Impossible Foods. “Lalu kita bisa mengatakan, Seberapa dekat Burger Impossible? Di mana kami dapat melakukan perbaikan dan iterasi untuk mengidentifikasi bagaimana membuat masing-masing senyawa rasa tertentu itu?”

Dekonstruksi semacam ini biasa terjadi dalam ilmu makanan, cara untuk memahami dengan tepat bagaimana senyawa yang berbeda menghasilkan rasa dan aroma yang berbeda. "Secara teori, jika Anda mengetahui segala sesuatu yang ada dalam proporsi yang tepat, Anda dapat menciptakan kembali rasa atau aroma tertentu dari bahan kimia itu sendiri," kata Staci Simonich, ahli kimia di Oregon State University.

Lalu ada masalah tekstur. Tidak ada yang terasa seperti daging giling. Jadi Impossible Foods mengisolasi protein individu dalam daging. “Kemudian saat kami mengidentifikasi apa sifat protein tertentu itu, kami pergi dan melihat tanaman untuk protein nabati yang memiliki sifat yang sama,” kata Holz-Schietinger. Plant proteins tend to taste more bitter, so Impossible Foods has to develop proteins with a cleaner taste.

What they’ve landed on in the current iteration is a surprising mix. Ingredients include wheat protein, to give the burger that firmness and chew. And potato protein, which allows the burger to hold water and transition from a softer state to a more solid state during cooking. For fat, Impossible Foods uses coconut with the flavor sucked out. And then of course you need the leghemoglobin for heme, which drives home the flavor of “meat.”

For something that so accurately mimics the taste and look and feel and smell of meat (and trust us, it does), the Impossible Burger is actually not all that complex. “Earlier iterations were much more complex because we didn't fully understand it,” says Holz-Schietinger (experiments with cucumber and the famously smelly durian fruit didn't . pan out, nor did trying to replicate the different connective tissues of a cow). “Now we understand which each component drives each sensory experience.”

At the moment, the Impossible Burger is only available in select restaurants, though Impossible Foods just opened a plant with the idea of increasing production from 300,000 pounds a month to a million. But as they focus on expansion, some critics are raising questions about the burger of tomorrow.

In 2014, Impossible Foods filed what’s known as a GRAS notice, or “generally recognized as safe,” with the FDA. In it, the company listed the reasons it considered soy leghemoglobin safe for humans to consume. Leghemoglobin, they argued, is chemically similar to other globins considered safe, so it should carry the same confidence with consumers. Food companies aren’t required to tell the FDA when they’re introducing new ingredients, and filing this sort of self GRAS determination is not mandatory, but Impossible Foods says it did so in the name of transparency.

“Leghemoglobin is structurally similar to proteins that we consume all the time,” says Impossible Foods’ chief science officer David Lipman. "But we did the toxicity studies anyway and they showed that that was safe.” They compared the protein to known allergens, for instance, and found no matches. The company also got the OK from a panel of experts, including food scientist Michael Pariza at the University of Wisconsin, Madison.

But the company didn't get the blessing it was looking for from the FDA. As detailed in documents FOIA⟭ by environmental groups and published by The New York Times in August, the FDA questioned the company’s conclusions. “FDA believes that the arguments presented, individually and collectively, do not establish the safety of SLH [soy leghemoglobin] for consumption, nor do they point to a general recognition of safety…,” the FDA wrote in a memo. That is not to say the FDA concluded leghemoglobin to be unsafe, just that it had questions.

The FDA also noted that the company's engineered yeast doesn't just produce leghemoglobin—it also produces 40 other normally occurring yeast proteins that end up in the burger, which "raises further question on how the safety argument could be made based solely on SLH." Impossible Foods insists these proteins are safe, and notes that the yeast it has engineered is non-toxic, and that its toxicity studies examined the whole leghemoglobin ingredient.

Impossible Foods withdrew its GRAS notice in November 2015 to perform a new study. They fed rats more than 200 times the amount of the leghemoglobin ingredient than the average American would consume if the ground beef in their diet—an average of 25 grams a day—was replaced with Impossible's fake meat (adjusted for weight). They found no adverse effects.

Meanwhile, the Impossible Burger is on the market, which has some environmental groups peeved. That and there's the larger question of whether GRAS notifications should be voluntary or mandatory. “The generally recognized as safe exception was meant for common food ingredients, not for the leading-edge products, especially the innovative like the leghemoglobin,” says Tom Neltner, chemicals policy director at the Environmental Defense Fund, which was not involved in the FOIA. “We don't think it should be a voluntary review, we don't think the law allows it.” Accordingly, the group is suing the FDA over the agency’s GRAS process.

Others are concerned that leghemoglobin—again, a new ingredient in the food supply, since humans don't typically eat soy roots—hasn’t gone through enough testing to prove it’s safe, and agree with the FDA that Impossible Foods’ GRAS notification came up short. “The point of some of us that are being critical of this is not that everything that's engineered is unsafe or anything like that,” says Michael Hansen, senior staff scientist at the Consumers Union, which was also not involved in the FOIA. “It's like, look, any new food ingredient, some new food additive, of course it should go through a safety assessment process.”


5 Indie Food Mags We Love (And You Should Too)

We're in a golden age of independent food magazines, and the section of our bookshelf dedicated to them runneth over. At the Foodieodicals event—part of the annual Food Book Fair in Brooklyn this April 10-12—indie food mags from all over the world, from Beijing to Maine and Minneapolis, will gather, mingle, and hawk their wares for the weekend. (Full disclosure: I edit Drift , an indie food mag about coffee and culture, and I'll be manning a table on Saturday at Foodieodicals. Come say hi!) We love the power indie mags—David Chang's Persik Beruntung and the many local varieties of makanan among them—but we're reading dozens of them lately, for their daring editorial, eye-catching images, and altogether good vibes. In anticipation of this weekend, we spoke with the people behind five of our favorite indie food mags that have been around for a while, and here's what we learned:

Gather Journal

Co-Founders: Michele Overland and Fiorella Valdesolo
Based Out Of: New York City
Current Issue: #6, Magic (biannually)
Website: gatherjournal.com

Gather is based on "seasonal recipes and exceptional ideas." Each of its six issues wield abstract themes–Magic, Caravan, Cocoon–but coalesce around approachable recipes and the inventive, creative, and often heartfelt stories that inspired them.

On finding inspiration:
Ideas for Gather come naturally, mostly because "Michele and I share a same brain and a same stomach," Valdesolo told us, but also because they find inspiration everywhere. "I think that because of our publishing backgrounds and being at Nilon , we love popular culture, art, design, and music." For Issue 6: Magic , for example, combining their love of food with film took them down some unexpected roads.

On pop culture as research:
Along those roads of inspiration stood Olivia Newton John in Xanadu and, for Valdesolo, a lot of "weird, old magic movies" and Woody Allen's Magic in the Moonlight . They read old fairy tales, screened old Disney movies, and " Kerajinan [the 1996 film about four teenage girls who try to use witchcraft and telekinesis for their own gain] definitely got watched a few times." Hasil? An issue full of fairy tales and recipes with roots in potion-making, wild edible botanicals, and science in the kitchen.

Fool Magazine

Co-Founders: Lotta Jorgensen and Per-Anders Jorgensen
Based Out Of: Malmö, Sweden
Current Issue: #5, Religion (biannually)
Website: www.fool.se

Fool Magazine was born out of the idea that a food magazine on gastronomy and food culture need not have recipes. The made-in-Scandinavia mag is the brainchild of husband-and-wife team Per-Anders and Lotta Jorgensen, whose striking and moody (often black-and-white) photography and thoughtful storytelling has carried it through five issues and a few awards to boot.

On sticking with a vision (no matter how far-fetched):
For Per-Anders, Fool's themes are just "a handrail to hold onto." Everything else is a product of his and Lotta's vision, no matter how out there. For the Italian issue, they staged a Fellini-inspired shoot—with only five people and a shoestring budget—starring Osteria Francescana's Massimo Bottura , who they've known for over 15 years. Jorgensen said they got it done with sheer determination. "I always have a vision for how I want things to look, even down to the rope in the first image. When I’m in that kind of zone, I totally focus on what I’m doing, and I turn blind to other things. It’s about focus." With that focus comes control: "We had strong ideas and for once Massimo wasn’t the director. He’s always the director he’s always in charge. For once, I was in charge."

MOOD Magazine

Co-Founders: Mario Villar Sanjurjo and Emma Hovel
Based Out Of: New York City
Current Issue: #7, Exotic, Colorful, and Loud! (quarterly)
Website: moodmusicfood.com

Born in Brussels but now based in New York, the quarterly magazine MOOD travels the globe and delivers stories and photo essays on the nodes where music and food intersect.

On keeping it real:
Said co-founder and editorial director Villar Sanjurjo, "It’s surprising how many people who work in music are interested in or have worked in food. So many successful chefs have worked in the music industry and vice versa. So many artists have been in kitchens around the world to pay the bills." It's the down-to-earth vibes of the music and food worlds that inspire MOOD most: " You’re cooking for real people. Most people are not cooking for high art. Music is the same. You have an audience and want to keep it interesting, but you want to be down there with the people." It's about having fun and not taking yourself too seriously: "We try to be fun and spontaneous. We don’t want to think of MOOD of something perfect and precious."

Cleaver Quarterly

Co-Founders: Lilly Chow, Jonathan White, and Ian Shaw
Based Out Of: Beijing, China
Current Issue: #4 (quarterly)
Website: www.thecleaverquarterly.com

If you love Chinese food, you're in luck. Cleaver Quarterly devotes each and every issue to Chinese cuisine. The magazine, which is working on its fifth issue, is based in Beijing but features stories from the mainland and diaspora. If you can eat it, and it's of Chinese origin, it might already be in Cleaver .

On going where no mag has gone before:
Kapan Cleaver Quarterly started, managing editor Chow and her team noticed there "were just so many stories [about Chinese food] that weren't being told in English."

On stunt eating:
Chow told us about the time executive publisher Johnny [Jonathan White] did zuo yuezi, or "sitting the month," the 30-day postpartum food and rest regimen for new mothers, and kept a diary of it for Issue 3. " After women give birth, they spend a month indoors recuperating. They're not really supposed to leave the house. They're not supposed to take showers because they're not supposed to get cold. There are dietary prohibitions: things you're supposed to eat all the time to help your body recover and things to avoid. It’s about the yin and yang. Most men don’t even know about this. Most Chinese girls have some idea of it even if they don’t know the specifics because they know it’ll happen to them at some point."

On dedication, for readers' sakes:
Chow translated instructions for Johnny and found some pre-packaged soups online from Taobao, the Chinese eBay. Johnny threw those ingredients in a slow cooker with traditional Chinese medicinal herbs for healing the post-natal body. Johnny, bundled up, kept track every day. Chow says, " He was the reader proxy. The reader will come at it the same way Johnny did, but thankfully they don't have to eat this horrible food."

Hot Rum Cow

Founded by: White Light Media
Editorial Director: Simon Lyle
Based Out Of: Edinburgh, Scotland
Current Issue: #7, The Rum Issue (quarterly)
Website: www.hotrumcow.co.uk

Based out of Edinburgh, Hot Rum Cow is a magazine dedicated to "adventures in the world of drinking." On its seventh issue, the magazine has taken deep dives into global warming's effect on wine, the perks of Centerba ("one hundred herbs," a potent green Italian liqueur), and an inside look at the Trappist monks who make Westvleteren beer.

On big ideas:
Hot Rum Cow is nothing if not cheeky. And editorial director Lyle, who says he is "not a picky drinker," is at the helm. "For Issue 6: Future Booze , we did a piece about photographs used for a temperance campaign in Australia. The photos showed the five stages of inebriation—starting with an upstanding gentleman and ending with him being carted away by police. We wanted to update that. What are the perils or problems with being drunk in the 21st century? "

On getting his hands (and shirt) dirty:
Except, for logistical and budgetary reasons, Lyle got roped into the photoshoot. as a model: "I was like, 'We’ll see how it goes.' They told me it would require some drinking in order to relax into the role." But that one drink for relaxation turned into a few more. "The photographer was plying me with tequila and weird blue-looking liquids. It ultimately ended with a kebab on my lap, sick down my shirt, and a tie tied around my head. I had to pick up my kids from nursery with sick on my shirt and smelling like tequila."

On work as play:
It's not always that hard to publish a magazine about alcohol, though. Lyle told us, "I was in Spain for the sherry issue. There were a harrowing few days where I went around to lots of tapas bars and bodegas to drank sherry and brandy. That was one of the days when you think, I can't believe I’m paid to do this ."


Literary Footsteps

“Asolando” with Robert Browning

Musings of a grounded Travel Editor

Who is planning to go to Italy this summer? How many of us will actually resume our previous much-taken- for-granted summer vacations to il bel paese this year?

We are at the doorstep of quite possibly a second consecutive summer hiatus from Italy—unless you’re fine with quarantining and COVID tests, then buon viaggio. For the rest of us, interna- tional travel depends on the success of the vaccine rollout, and whether both Canada and Italy will have a handle on the situation before we can indulge the fantasy of a tricolore reunion.

Rest assured, once I do get clearance to fly again, I am not set- tling for a brief visit next time. I am prolonging my stay so I can truly savour the experience and take in as much beauty as I can stand. Thanks to remote working, that prospect is tenable.

The idea of the long stay and this unrelenting desire to return made me reflect upon the many artists and writers over the past few centuries who were incredibly inspired and forever changed by their visits to Italy. It was this deep appreciation that spurred the editorial theme in the summer issue. A country that was discov- ered and loved by foreigners long before it even was a unified country. A place that touches the hearts of many and who long
mengembalikan. Following the tracks of these literary giants is one of
the ways we can continue our long-distance love affair with the country right now.


What’s the story behind the stable in Forest Park?

In the southeast quadrant of Forest Park, just a stone’s throw from the McDonnell Planetarium, a long barn provides shelter for the four horses in the St. Louis Metropolitan Police Department’s mounted unit. This large structure wasn’t always a stable, though: It once housed airplanes.

After World War I, the United States Postal Service set up the first coast-to-coast airmail route, which stretched from New York to San Francisco, passing through Chicago. The St. Louis postmaster proposed creating a branch line extending from Chicago to St. Louis.

City Hall and the Chamber of Commerce each kicked in $12,500 to build a hangar and clear about 100 acres of Forest Park for a runway. The first airmail flight clattered out of the park on the morning of August 16, 1920, carrying about 150 pounds of mail. “Let us carefully nurture the present advantages of the aerial service and look to its immediate enlargement,” the Chamber declared in a letter, “[so] that this interchange of business may be even larger, to the lasting benefit of both cities.”

Yet the Forest Park airmail service lasted less than a year. It wasn’t slow: The planes could deliver letters to Chicago in less than four hours, on average, whereas a train would take eight hours at best. The problem, rather, was that Congress failed to appropriate the funding necessary to keep it going, so the route closed June 30, 1921. All told, the aircraft had carried 52,000 pounds of mail and logged 130,000 miles.

A private firm operated on the Forest Park airfield as well: the Robertson Aircraft Corporation. The Robertsons purchased a Curtiss JN-4 Jenny biplane left over from the war. They took passengers up for lessons and sightseeing flights. Ralston Purina hired them to paint the checkerboard logo on their plane and drop advertisements onto farm property for $20 a day. But the residents who lived near that edge of Forest Park complained about the noise, so the city told the company to find another headquarters. It was relocated to the area that is now St. Louis Lambert International Airport.

The section of Forest Park that used to be the airfield is now called the Boeing Aviation Fields it boasts four baseball and four softball diamonds. And the hangar? The SLMPD’s mounted unit moved into it in the 1970s. After the discovery of lead paint in 2009, the horses were relocated to new quarters for their own safety. Forest Park Forever raised $900,000 for a renovation that included lead and asbestos removal, a new roof, and offices for the officers. The unit returned to the hangar in fall 2013 and remains there today.


Rouses Magazine

Our magazine celebrates the Gulf Coast’s unique culture, history and cuisine. Each issue delivers a mix of food, drink, recipes, culinary how-tos, and more. It is one of largest grocery store publications in the nation.

Our roster of award-winning writers and photographers includes contributors to The New York Times, Saveur, Garden & Gun, Atlantik, Texas Bulanan dan banyak lagi.

In this Issue

When I was a young student, I had a professor say that there are two sorts of people in the world: those who buy art to match their sofa, and those who buy their sofa to match their art. Wine is no different. What goes on in the bottle transcends vintage (i.e., the year printed on the label). Some wines—particularly those from the “old world” (those from France, Spain, Italy—anyplace once part of the Roman Empire, basically)—are grown in soil that has been cultivated for a thousand years. You are literally drinking that effort. Wine, in other words, need not be the supporting player it can be the main event.

No matter which method of heat you choose, general steak preparation is universal. Never poke your steak with a fork or use a fork to flip it. It’s tongs or nothing in this game, as puncture wounds will cause moisture loss. You didn’t go all the way to Rouses to buy the best steaks in town just to eat the dry stuff some other stores sell.

Steak Florentine is a cut of meat that is known for its colossal size and shape—a well-marbled T-bone that’s at least 1.5 inches thick and weighs between 1.5 and 3 pounds, on average—but also the specificity with which this gigantic, feed-a-couple steak is to be cooked.

n home kitchens, cauliflower “steaks” are the center-stage-ready, crowd-pleasing—dare I say, meaty?—way to feed a crowd (even one with all different kinds of dietary restrictions!) while still being able to create a satisfying, zhuzhed-up meal. Inherently vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free and keto-friendly, these cheekily named, unexpected showstoppers might not be “steaks” in the traditional sense, but they’re tasty, satisfying and surprisingly simple to prepare. .


The New Science of Exercise

E ver since high school, Dr. Mark Tarnopolsky has blurred the line between jock and nerd. After working out every morning and doing 200 push-ups, he runs three miles to his lab at McMaster University in Ontario. When he was younger, Tarnopolsky dreamed of becoming a gym teacher. But now, in his backup career as a genetic metabolic neurologist, he’s determined to prove that exercise can be used as medicine for even the sickest patients.

“People would always say to me, ‘Exercise? Ayo. Scientifically, you can’t come up with a mechanism, so it’s a complete waste of time,'” Tarnopolsky says. “But as time goes on, paper after paper after paper shows that the most effective, potent way that we can improve quality of life and duration of life is exercise.”

Tarnopolsky has published some of those papers himself. In 2011, he and a team studied mice with a terrible genetic disease that caused them to age prematurely. Over the course of five months, half of the mice were sedentary. The other half were coaxed to run three times a week on a miniature treadmill.

By the end of the study, the sedentary mice were barely hanging on. The fur that had yet to fall out had grown coarse and gray, muscles shriveled, hearts weakened, skin thinned–even the mice’s hearing got worse. “They were shivering in the corner, about to die,” Tarnopolsky says.

But the group of mice that exercised, genetically compromised though they were, were nearly indistinguishable from healthy mice. Their coats were sleek and black, they ran around their cages, they could even reproduce. “We almost completely prevented the premature aging in the animals,” Tarnopolsky says.

That’s remarkable news, if you’re a mouse. And though there are obvious differences between rodents and humans, Tarnopolsky has seen something similar happen in his ill patients. “I’ve seen all the hype about gene therapy for people with genetic disease”–Tarnopolsky treats kids with severe genetic diseases like muscular dystrophy–“but it hasn’t delivered in the 25 years I’ve been doing this,” he says. “The most effective therapy available to my patients right now is exercise.”

Tarnopolsky now thinks he knows why. In studies where blood is drawn immediately after people exercised, researchers have found that many positive changes occur throughout the body during and right after a workout. “Going for a run is going to improve your skin health, your eye health, your gonadal health,” he says. “It’s unbelievable.” If there were a drug that could do for human health everything that exercise can, it would likely be the most valuable pharmaceutical ever developed.

The trouble is only 20% of Americans get the recommended 150 minutes of strength and cardiovascular physical activity per week, more than half of all baby boomers report doing no exercise whatsoever, and 80.2 million Americans over age 6 are entirely inactive.

The consequences of a sedentary life are as well documented as they are dire. People with low levels of physical activity are at higher risk for many different kinds of cancer, heart disease, Alzheimer’s disease and early death by any cause. That’s at the end of life. Long before that, inactivity can worsen arthritis symptoms, increase lower-back pain and lead to depression and anxiety–not to mention cause a sallow complexion.

Despite public-awareness campaigns, the health benefits of exercise have not been effectively communicated to the average American. Humans are notoriously bad at assessing the long-term benefits–and risks–of their lifestyle choices. And vague promises that exercise is “good for you” or even “good for the heart” aren’t powerful enough to motivate most people to do something they think of as a chore. Humans are, however, motivated by rewards. That is why experts like Tarnopolsky are so focused on proving that the scientific benefits of exercise–slower aging, better mood, less chronic pain, stronger vision, the list goes on–are real, measurable and almost immediate.

The U.S. National Institutes of Health (NIH) is on the bandwagon too. Next year the agency will launch a massive new study with the aim of documenting in unprecedented detail exactly what happens inside a body in motion. Its hope: to prove that exercise is medicine.

Before doctors adopted a single-minded focus on treating and curing diseases, their main goal was to keep people healthy. Even back in 400 B.C., doctors knew that diet and exercise were the best ways to do that. “Eating alone will not keep a man well,” Hippocrates famously wrote. “He must also take exercise.” For millennia, doctors were the vanguards of physical education–the original PE teachers.

But in the early 1900s, with the rise of modern surgery and nascent pharmaceuticals, medicine shifted its focus from the prevention of disease to its treatment. Paradoxically, physicians de-emphasized exercise just as the modern Olympics swelled in popularity and colleges began building campus stadiums to accommodate America’s growing love of spectator sports. The authors of a paper published in a 1905 issue of the Journal of the American Medical Association mourned how many people were losing sight of the health benefits of exercise. “The men on the teams are the very ones whom Nature has endowed superabundantly with physical capacity, but on them the physical director bends most of his energies,” they wrote, “while the average student is left to get his physical development by yelling from the bleachers.”

Physical activity was no longer the medicine of the masses but the privilege of elite athletes. When scientists studied exercise, it was to figure out how athletes could improve their peak performance–not how mere mortals could improve their health day to day. This gap persists. At a time when boutique (read: expensive) fitness studios are more popular than ever, fewer people are getting the minimum recommended amount of exercise.

Worse, many U.S. schools have seen gym classes cut from the curriculum nearly half of high school students don’t have weekly PE class, and only 15% of elementary schools require PE at least three days a week for the school year. The result: the majority of American kids and adolescents have so-called exercise-deficit disorder. Meanwhile, childhood-obesity rates have climbed every year since 1999. “You have whole generations that are soured on exercise,” says Jack Berryman, professor emeritus of medical history at the University of Washington School of Medicine.

Researchers like Tarnopolsky and Marcas Bamman, an exercise physiologist who also wants to be part of the NIH study, are hoping that their work will begin reversing those trends. Next year the NIH will launch its six-year, $170 million study with a group of about 3,000 sedentary people, ranging in age from children to the elderly. They will start an exercise program and then donate blood, fat and muscle before and after they exercise. Scientists will then examine samples for clues to how the body changes with physical activity. A control group that doesn’t exercise will also be tracked for comparison.

As part of the study, researchers will do the same experiment in animals to get tissue samples from places like the brain and the lungs that would be too dangerous to obtain from humans. “It’ll be a tremendously enormous data set,” says Maren Laughlin, program director for integrative metabolism at the NIH, who is also a lead on the new study. In the end, the researchers think they’ll be able to identify every single molecule in the body that’s tweaked or turned on by exercise.

This kind of study–its size, its rigor, its aims–is a first, and experts are hoping it will give doctors the evidence they need to start treating exercise like the miracle drug they’ve long thought it to be. “If you think of exercise as a true form of medicine, which it is, it’s not good enough to just look at a patient and say, ‘You need to do more exercise,'” says Bamman, director of the Center for Exercise Medicine at the University of Alabama at Birmingham. “That’s no better than handing someone a bottle of pills and saying, ‘Here, take a few,'” with no other explanation.

Bamman is betting that with this new data, exercise will one day be prescribed to patients. Instead of leaving the doctor’s office with nothing but a slip of paper with a drug name scrawled on it, patients may also get a detailed exercise plan tailored to make their medication work better. “We think that precision will go a long way in changing behavior,” Bamman says. “We’re at a really important time in the field.”

Think of all the different ways you can sweat and you might be surprised that each falls into one of just two categories. You’re doing aerobic exercise when your breathing speeds up, your blood flows faster and your heart pumps more of it, shooting oxygen out to the tissues in the rest of the body. It’s the most popular kind about half of Americans meet the recommendations for aerobic physical activity. But only 20% also do the other type, strength training. The phrase may conjure grunting weight lifters and gym dumbbells slick with sweat, but to build muscle and strengthen bones, you really only need to use your body weight as resistance, says Anthony Hackney, an exercise physiologist at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill. That’s why things like yoga, tai chi and Pilates–not just pumping iron–are excellent forms of strength training. “People always get the image of the big, muscular guy,” Hackney says. “We try to think of muscle strength and power as a 65-year-old lady picking up a gallon of milk, pouring a glass and feeling comfortable.”

In addition to the heart, muscles, lungs and bones, scientists are finding that another major beneficiary of exercise might be the brain. Recent research links exercise to less depression, better memory and quicker learning. Studies also suggest that exercise is, as of now, the best way to prevent or delay the onset of Alzheimer’s, which is second only to cancer as the disease Americans fear most, according to surveys.

Scientists don’t know exactly why exercise changes the structure and function of the brain for the better, but it’s an area of active research. So far, they’ve found that exercise improves blood flow to the brain, feeding the growth of new blood vessels and even new brain cells, courtesy of the protein BDNF, short for brain-derived neurotrophic factor. BDNF triggers the growth of new neurons and helps repair and protect brain cells from degeneration. “I always tell people that exercise is regenerative medicine–restoring and repairing and basically fixing things that are broken,” Bamman says.

Repairs like this throughout the body may be the reason exercise has been shown to extend life span by as much as five years. A small new study suggests that moderate-intensity exercise may slow down the aging of cells. As humans get older and their cells divide over and over again, their telomeres–the protective caps on the end of chromosomes–get shorter. To see how exercise affects telomeres, researchers took a muscle biopsy and blood samples from 10 healthy people before and after a 45-minute ride on a stationary bicycle. They found that exercise increased levels of a molecule that protects telomeres, ultimately slowing how quickly they shorten over time. Exercise, then, appears to slow aging at the cellular level.

For all its merits, however, exercise is not an effective way to lose weight, research has shown. In a cruel twist, many people actually gain weight after they start exercising, whether from new muscle mass or a fired-up appetite. “Some people say exercise doesn’t do anything,” says researcher John Jakicic of the University of Pittsburgh. “Well, exercise does a lot. It just may not show up on the scale.”

One of the best pieces of news is that so much of what we already do counts as physical activity. “Mowing the grass, raking leaves, washing the car–all that’s exercise,” says Berryman, the exercise historian. “Physical activity includes all movement, not just throwing a ball through a basket.”

What’s more, emerging research suggests that it doesn’t take much movement to get the benefits. “We’ve been interested in the question of, How low can you go?” says Martin Gibala, an exercise physiologist at McMaster University. After all, if it were possible to reap all the health benefits of exercise in a tiny fraction of the time, who wouldn’t be compelled to give it a try?

Gibala wanted to test how efficient and effective a 10-minute workout could be, compared with the standard 50-minutes-at-a-time approach. The micro-workout he devised consists of three exhausting 20-second bouts of all-out, hard-as-you-can exercise, followed by brief recoveries. In a three-month study, he pitted the short workout against the standard one to see which was better.

To his amazement, the workouts resulted in identical improvements in heart function and blood-sugar control, even though one workout was five times longer than the other. “If you’re willing and able to push hard, you can get away with surprisingly little exercise,” Gibala says.

Not everyone can–or wants to–do this kind of excruciating workout, often referred to as high-intensity interval training, or HIIT. Many of us would gladly bounce around in Zumba class for an hour to avoid enduring even a minute of HIIT torture. But considering that a lack of time is the No. 1 reason people say they don’t exercise, a workout far shorter than what’s generally recommended could be a strong motivator. Gibala, for his part, is wondering if the workout can get even shorter. He’s even played around with the idea of a one-minute workout.

Not every type of exercise will work for every person, of course, but a growing body of research indicates that very vigorous exercise–like the interval workouts Gibala is studying–is, in fact, appropriate for people with different chronic conditions, from Type 2 diabetes to heart failure. That’s new thinking, because for decades, people with certain diseases and even pregnant women were advised not to exercise. Now scientists know that far more people can and should exercise. A recent analysis of more than 300 clinical trials discovered that for people recovering from a stroke, for instance, exercise was even more effective at helping them rehabilitate.

Dr. Robert Sallis, a family physician who runs a sports-medicine fellowship at Kaiser Permanente Fontana Medical Center in California, has prescribed exercise to his patients since the early 1990s in hopes of doling out less medication. “It really worked amazingly, particularly in my very sickest patients,” he says. “If I could get them to do it on a regular basis–even just walking, anything that got their heart rate up a bit–I would see dramatic improvements in their chronic disease, not to mention all of these other things like depression, anxiety, mood and energy levels.”

Older people, too, can benefit from strenuous exercise. Until now, all the recommendations for increasing bone density have included low-repetition, high-weight types of training, says Jinger Gottschall, associate professor of kinesiology at Penn State University. “But this just isn’t feasible for a lot of people. You can’t picture your grandma going in and doing that.” Luckily for Grandma, Gottschall’s team found that lifting lighter weights for more reps improves bone density in key parts of the body, making it a good alternative to heavy lifting.

It’s becoming evident that nearly everyone–young, old, pregnant, ill–benefits from exercise. And as scientists learn more about why that is, they’re hoping that those early 20th century missteps–the move away from our being bodies in motion–will be reversed. They’re also hoping that the messaging around exercise gets simpler. “People think now, because of the health-club and fitness movement, that in order to exercise you need to join a fancy club and wear fancy clothes,” says Berryman. In fact, some of the best exercise, research is showing, doesn’t require a gym membership at all.

Back at McMaster University, Tarnopolsky and his team are almost finished doing autopsies on mice from their new study, and even though the scalpel-wielding scientists are blind to which groups the mice were in, they can tell with certainty which animals were allowed to exercise and which were sedentary. “You open up the sedentary mice and there’s fat all over the place,” he says. About half of those mice have tumors. “They just look god-awful.”

As for the mice who hit the wheel every day? “We haven’t found a single tumor,” he says. “I think if people saw, they’d be pretty motivated to exercise.”


Go Inside Martha's Incredible New Cookbook Library

Although there are many sites online where you can find delicious recipes (including ours, of course), I believe that having a wide range of cookbooks is essential, both for inspiration and as an invaluable and practical resource.

While I do keep duplicates of my most referenced books on shelves in my main kitchen, I recently decided to create a bright and beautiful library for my volumes, in the dining room of the Maple Avenue house on my farm in Bedford. This is my place to dream up new dishes and flip through old favorites, like my 1961 first edition of Mastering the Art of French Cooking, by Julia Child, Simone Beck, and Louisette Bertholle (which can now fetch upwards of $700) South Wind Through the Kitchen, by the famous English food writer Elizabeth David The Art of Fine Baking, by Paula Peck and the venerable Larousse Gastronomique.

With the help of a designer from California Closets, I designated areas for simple adjustable shelves, which are handy for oversize books. Then I organized titles by type of cuisine: I have a section devoted to Italian food, for instance, while my pastry books fill another.

I furnished the space like a formal, well-lit reading room in an old public library. A large dining table for hosting lunches and dinners doubles as a work surface where I can spread out multiple books, papers, and photos. Standing lamps provide ample illumination, and an antique mirror over the fireplace helps reflect more light when day fades into evening. Translucent window shades protect the books from dire sun exposure. I also added several begonias and topiaries to bring life into the room they seem to love the north and east light.

I'm delighted with the results. Being surrounded by all these recipes just might inspire me to get started on another cookbook. Stay tuned for what it will be!


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